William Shakespeare once wrote, “All the world’s a stage.” Nicolas Ghesquière now offers extravagant clothing for it. His latest cruise collection for Louis Vuitton is a definite success. It is lavishly embellished. Its spirit is spunky. It is also appropriately theatrical. This flamboyant collection skillfully avoided being “costume-y.” This can sometimes affect designers.
A Historic Venue for a Dramatic Show
Louis Vuitton and Ghesquière brought the fashion world to Avignon. The world-famous Palais des Papes hosted the event. Its imposing Gothic architecture heightened the collection’s “Excalibur” vibes. The collection showcased busy medieval tunics. It also featured jaunty capes. Soft Joan of Arc dresses appeared in metallic jersey.
Ghesquière smiled. He described the pieces as “women’s armor for everyday life.”
Dazzling Accessories and Craftsmanship
The accessories were truly dazzling. Open-toed, sock-like booties shone brightly. They were heavily bedazzled with mirrors. They featured all sorts of precious materials. Leather cavalier boots also stood out. They were hammered with countless silvery grommets. Alma bags arrived with gilded 3D embellishments. These are usually found on rare book covers. In English, this technique is called “manuscript illumination.”
Inspirations: History Meets Glam Rock
“It looks at history, but it’s not historical,” Ghesquière explained. He discussed the collection during a preview. He listed many references. These spanned from Arthurian times. They also included glam-rock royalty. David Bowie was a key influence. The Haim sisters were also noted. Two of them attended the golden-hour show. This was on Thursday night.
The Palais des Papes is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It has been a key venue for Avignon’s annual theater festival. This began in 1947. French director Jean Vilar started staging performances there. He used the historic monument’s vast courtyard. Now, Louis Vuitton is the first fashion house. It staged a runway show at this landmark. The papacy resided there for 70 years. This was until 1377. Then, it returned to Rome.
The Set Design and Celebrity Attendees
Es Devlin created a striking set. It featured tiered, red velvet theater seats. These seats were left empty. The audience sat where the stage usually is. This is for the summer festival program.
Many celebrities attended the show. They were in the south of France for the Cannes Film Festival. Cate Blanchett, Emma Stone, and Saoirse Ronan were present. Catherine Deneuve, Alicia Vikander, and Stacy Martin also watched. Julia Nobis walked out in a scrambled knight’s uniform. This cued blurred references. These included medieval times and performing arts.
The Influence of Stage Wear
“I was very interested in clothes for the stage,” Ghesquière enthused. He noted their general influence on fashion. Musicians, actors, and dancers inspire clothing. “It’s something very collective and very inspiring,” he added.
The collection leaned towards dressy styles. It used rich, often metallic fabrics. Dense embroideries were prominent. However, some streamlined pea coats appeared. A few leggy skirt suits were also included. French First Lady Brigitte Macron favors these. Lots of demonstrative knitwear was present. Some jersey pieces were unrecognizable as such.
Unique Materials and Artistic Collaborations
Ghesquière explored unusual materials and textures. Pert caps were made of raffia. Wood-framed handbags were also featured. These were a collaboration with Thomas Roger. Roger is a crafty 30-year-old talent from Alsace, France. Ghesquière discovered him through Dutch model Marte Mei van Haaster.
The fabrics’ colors and motifs were inspired. They came from artworks and decorations. These were found in the papal bedroom. The silhouettes rooted the collection in the present. Short, flaring skater skirts abounded. Knitted HotPants were also plentiful.
Avignon: A Cradle of Culture
Ghesquière first visited Avignon in the early 2000s. He encountered Bill Viola videos. Pina Bausch performances were also influential. Christian Boltanski installations left an impression. These experiences cemented the city’s status for him. He saw it as a “cradle of culture.”
He views destination cruise shows as cultural celebrations. This is key for Louis Vuitton. The brand expands its reach. It extends into art, entertainment, and hospitality. For this show, the luxury giant scouted hotels. They found 36 around Provence. These hosted guests. Guests enjoyed olive-oil tastings. They went on hikes. They visited antique markets. Open-air dinners and lunches were held. These took place in spectacular locations.
Avignon’s Milestones and Artistic Connections
This is a big year for Avignon. It celebrates its 25th anniversary. This marks its time as the European Capital of Culture. It also celebrates the 30th anniversary of its UNESCO World Heritage recognition. Furthermore, it is the 50th anniversary of the Petit Palais-Louvre Museum.
French artist Jean-Michel Othoniel attended the show. He is mounting a massive solo show this summer. It spans public spaces. It also includes 10 museums. The Palais des Papes is one of them. “It’s always amazing for an artist,” Othoniel said after the show. “To see this craziness of fashion — and the links to the architecture and the spirit of the place.” He added, “But I really loved the shoes. The shoes were amazing.”
Celebrities and the Stage
Performing for the stage was a major theme. It was also a big story of the collection. It defined the night. “The first time I came to Avignon was for the [theater] festival,” said Cate Blanchett. She is a regular stage performer. She arrived at the VIP cocktail. She wore a dramatic batwing blouse.
“I might be on stage pretty soon,” Chloë Grace Moretz teased. She added that her beauty line, Godmode, launches “very soon.” Saoirse Ronan confessed some reticence about theater. “Theater is wonderful, but there is a bit of you that’s like, ‘Gosh, this is hard,’” she said. She shrugged a leather bomber jacket. She wore it over a vaporous, lingerie-style gown.
“My husband [Jack Lowden] is on stage right now,” she shared. “I think he’s more born to be on stage than I am.” However, she added, “I like when theater and fashion come together.”
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